Head gasket repair for the do it your self person is a possible and practical solution to avoid expensive shop labor rates if the person doing the repair has access to the tools and technical info required. At least some mechanical know how or help from a mechanically inclined helper is a minimum requirement. Some research into the subject can be had by reading such publications as a Chilton or Haynes manual written for that particular engine and vehicle. Technical info such as head bolt torque sequence and torque values, proper timing info (in the case of overhead cams), proper valve lash settings and methods (where applicable), any info necessary for properly disassembly and reassembly of the intake/fuel system and exhaust system, etc. is imperative for correct head gasket replacement. This info should be gathered up and reviewed, before attempting head gasket repair, at least to make sure you have access to the correct tools and to prevent costly mistakes. Head gaskets provide a vital seal between the engine block and head for compression, oil and coolant. The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and void of any scratches, old gasket remnants or other imperfections that would hinder the proper sealing of the gasket. Head gaskets can blow in various ways, that is, compression to cooling system and oil to cooling systems or all the above. Proper diagnostic techniques including eliminating such things as optional oil coolers, bad radiator caps, etc. should be performed before actual head gasket replacement commences. Checking each spark plug for discoloration and/or cracked insulators is a very viable check where the gasket is possibly blown in between the cooling system and compression chamber. A compression check will help determine if the gasket is blown between two adjacent cylinders. Checking for compression and/or oil in the radiator and the presence of coolant in the crankcase will also substantiate the need for head gasket replacement in many cases. These checks among others will narrow down the possibilities, with a visual inspection of any removed head gasket for signs of it being blown and inspection of the suspect piston(s)/cylinder(s) topping off the diagnosis. Heads are particularly vulnerable to warpage and/or cracks, so upon removal they must be cleaned and inspected for both. It is also a good idea to inspect the valve seats for cracks as well as mating surfaces between the valves and their respective seats. Anything found lacking in these areas will need to be corrected before proceeding. Valve lapping or valve grinding may be a necessary part of head gasket repair. Higher mileage engines will possibly need a ring job if the valves are ground, because the old worn rings could have been damaged by any overheating that might have occurred plus other things. Oil usage along with possible smoking could result. In my experience, choice of replacement head gaskets is very important and OEM is not necessarily the way to go. There are aftermarket gaskets that provide superior sealing and longer life than many OEM gaskets especially on higher mileage engines. Edelbrock, Felpro and others are some examples of those very good quality aftermarket head gaskets. I did some searches on the Internet and read many of the results only to find I disagreed with almost every one of them in one way or the other. I can’t imagine where they get their information, but I seriously doubt if it came from a REAL hands on technician exactly the way it is portrayed. There are a few websites that does not contain misinformation, but unless you are a professional mechanic/technician, picking through that maze of stuff in search of the absolutes is as daunting a task as the first time head gasket replacement job. Absolutely do not use one of those easy head gasket repair in a bottle or can solutions! Do not use coolant stop leak in any form! They will only cost you even more in the long run as they can stop up radiators/heater cores, cause thermostat problems and hinder correct operation of some of today’s electronic sending units. Correctly fix the problem! www.headgasket.com/faq.html is one of several websites offering solid copper head gaskets, and where they are available in various thickness’ to “shim” up the head after machining it back to a flat surface. Local offline sources may also be available for these gaskets. “Shimming” is not new and gaskets other than solid copper is available that adequately accomplish this feat. High performance cars and trucks may benefit from solid copper head gaskets because of their sort of blow proof properties and the higher compression ratios normally associated with a high performance engine, among other reasons. If machining the head(s) is necessary, shimming the head(s) back to proper height for proper compression ratio becomes a very real deal and is especially important where “V” type engines are involved. Only slight machining of the heads on “V” type engines (V8s & V6s) can result in mismatching of the intake to head surfaces. Either the intake has to be machined along with the heads or the heads have to be raised back to the proper height. One vitally important area that is too often overlooked is the headbolts and bolt holes. The headbolts should be cleaned really well then lubricated well and allowed to drain to remove any excess lubricant. The bolt holes should be clean and should not contain any coolant, oil or other debris. If the head is bolted back down without the bolt and hole cleaning/lubrication, the bolt torque will likely not be at proper specs even though the torque wrench indicates it is. The presence of coolant or oil in a bolt hole creates hydraulic forces that could possibly crack the block! Although I am a master technician, I am also an advocate for “do it yourself” if the necessary information and other resources are available and you are reasonably mechanically inclined. Of course personal and public safety is of great importance and should never be compromised. If in doubt, seek professional help. 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